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Z1TLE
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Posted: Tue Jan 5th, 2010 08:15 pm |
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| Has any one been having problems with the single ply Cobra track in the Z1 or F series? With the correct tension set,the track rachets/skips only at high speed with some throttle. The only way to stop it is to go way to tight with the tension and this causes the slide arm in the suspesion to not move and the hyfax to wear out in as little as 149 miles in great snow conditions. My front heat exchanger has groves cut into it from the studs so it's obvious that the track is balooning out around the driveshaft. That all was last season and it's still not resolved. This pre season I discovered that when trying to set rack tension correctly it changes every time the track is moved. In other words if I set it at 1 1/2" it will be anywhere from 3/4" to 2" when the track stops rotating. It will end up something different every time. It's been to several diff dealers and no one can get A/C to comment either way. The dealer I bought it from says I'm one of the only people they know of who kept the stock Cobra track in it. They say to just fork out the money and buy a 2 ply and be done with it. ????
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Thu Jan 7th, 2010 12:40 am |
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| Since I posted this I have been searching a bunch on the net for this issue. As it turns out many people are having this or similer issues. Many folks have swithed out the tracks already and cured the problem. Also, Arctic Cat has stopped using the single ply tracks in the Z1 turbos and is now using the 2 ply ripsaw track.
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4strokin
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Posted: Sun Feb 7th, 2010 02:48 pm |
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| Believe or not the sled has to much power. Also a lot of guys just don't know how to tune thier sleds. another glaring issue was the lack of time on break-in. You have to put 600miles per ac. We put 750 on before we started to burp the throttle open.
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Tue Feb 16th, 2010 11:35 am |
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| My break in was done by the book, and I know how to take take of a machine, as I have got 10,000 miles or more out of every Cat I've had for years now. The power may not be as much as you think at times either. This is just one of those machines that Cat may have started selling a little to soon. Nine out of ten owners of these will agree, just way to many problems with the '09's to be acceptable, no matter how you treat them. Just put on 600 plus miles with a new Rip Saw track, what a difference. It was found that my Cobra track had broken belts. Like a diff machine with a good track. Now to try to get the other problems with this machine taken care of. Next up, it needs hyfax every day. Can't get much more then 150 miles before they burn down to skid in a riding area that my other Cats have gotton 2 to 4000 miles on the plastic before needing to change. I was hoping the track would take care of this like it did with many other issues I was having but no change with this.
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z1turbo
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Posted: Thu Feb 25th, 2010 07:55 pm |
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| Do not brake in these 4 strokes per ac or you will have a very slow sled. Brake it in like you stole it and you will have the fastest z1 on the trail. I learned this years ago from a 4 stroke race engine builder who showed how slow brake in will not let the rings set properly and will produce low power. I have an 09 z1 turbo and I had it up to 100 out of the box and I now have 1800 flawless miles on her. This is the fastest z1 around where I live. Add a speedwerx clutch kit and remap and and get up to 220 to 290 hp. There are several belts for this sled, For the 2009 model use the 070 belt and alighn your cluthches with the f1000 alighnment tool
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 11:51 am |
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| I never had any problems with belts at all on my machine or with it being too slow. Most problems I did have are now worked out. A good number of them had been caused by the track. The problems that I still have that I can't live with are; very poor handling, won't hold an idle at times, and it burns through hyfax every time you ride it. I just bought the rear suspension update kit for the '09 turbo's yesterday. I will install it and some new hyfax and see how that helps the handling. Waiting on a reflash to be avail from Cat for the stalling as we have verified that it runs to rich. The hyfax is still a head scratcher right now. Also, engine break in as you describe is a great way to shorten the life of that engine. You just might get to be the first one in your area to have a catastophic failure, good luck.
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z1turbo
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 01:24 pm |
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Have over 20,000 miles on a 4 stroke broke in the "Wrong Way" and still runs like new. Have not had and handling or hyfax problems at all on my z1, This sled handles like a dream. I am curious about the rear upgrade. Have not heard anything about it, called my cat dealer and they have not heard of it either. Where did you get it and how much?
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z1turbo
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 01:30 pm |
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| I have the stalling issue like many others. Did not have this problem until the brake in tune up was performed. Have had it to the dealer several times and they tell me it is fixed, only to have it stall as soon as I get it home. Have called cat directly and no one seems to know how to fix it. I was thinking during the brake in tune up maybe they started and shut down a few times and the plugs are getting fowled. Not realy sure..
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 02:06 pm |
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| Your the first person I heard that says it handles good. With all the weight the steering response is very poor at best. I just talked to a guy on the trail who says he spent over $1600 on diff skis trying to get it to handle better. This is one of the reasons A/C changed to a diff type of ski on the '10 models and made some rear suspension changes. The kit includes the parts that have been changed, not the skis though. My local A/C dealer showed me the memo from A/C concerning this and other problems with the '09 turbos, it was addressed to all A/C dealers. The part # is 0637-338. Take another look at your hyfax and not in the typical wear areas, look in the back right before the rear wheels on the rear axle. They all seem to have this problem (F series too) mine is just too exsessive.
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 02:11 pm |
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| Add a shim to your secondary and see if that helps. They have a very weak idle and if the belt is just even a little to tight they will quit at stop signs and etc. I run my belt a little looser then I would like because of this. Also, like I said they run to rich which we verified with an exaust probe. If you got the reflash from speedwerx they should have fixed that.
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z1turbo
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 02:21 pm |
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I have called 2 cat dealers and they do not even have that part #. I have read on other blogs about this so it must be fixing something. I will check my hyfaxes this afternoon, Never thought it would wear back there first, normaly it is at the front.
Can you give my a phone number of your dealer so maybe they could order it for me. How much was it?
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z1turbo
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 02:27 pm |
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Speedwerx did the remaping but I dont know if that is the same as "flashing"
My sleo came with the 060 I have the 070 belt that speedwerx recomended, it is about a 1/2 inch longer. I do not have problems stalling at stop signs, It is the first warm up start of the day. Will start and idle fine and i just a couple minutes it will drop down rpm`s and just stall. I have to give it a little gas to keep it idling until warm up
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 10:25 pm |
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| Per my local A/C dealer, all dealers were allowed a very small number of these kits for a very short time. You can not order more. Don't know why dealers by you would tell you otherwise. The kit is $27.95 retail. The hyfax issue is strange at best. Next to no wear at all in any of the normal wear areas like at the curve up front. It is all between the rear bump stop and the the rear wheels. I was in the UP 2 weeks ago, one of the days they burned almost all the way through in 123 miles in good conditions. I have never been able to get more then 200 miles out of a set since I bought it.
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2010 10:42 pm |
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| The new mapping was installed via a reflash or a download into your ECU. I've been told that when someone like Speedwerx does this that they address the "to rich at lower RPM's" condition and this stops the intermittent stalling. I would add a shim or remove the belt just to see if there is any change as this does sound like a belt related stalling issue. I have a Bikeman clutch kit and set up as they recomend, it stalls just like you desribe yours does. I added a shim just thick enough to stop it from happening. I would like to run my belt tighter as I believe there would be performance gains but they just stall to easy from even the slightest drag against them.
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z1turbo
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Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2010 01:18 am |
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I have had my belt off and it will still stall. I have read in some blogs wear people will turn their idle limit screw up just a hair and the problem goes away, Ac does not recommend touching the idle screw but these people swear it works. I will probably try it if I cannot find any other way to fix it.
I called ac and they contacted my local dealer about the suspension upgrade and mine will be here Monday. That hyfax wear is a mystery, I have over 1400 miles and half of those were on marginal at best conditions, they are still in good condition. I will need a new set by next year but for you to only be getting 200 miles out of a set does not make sense. Hopefully the upgrade will fix that problem..
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Z1TLE
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Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2010 03:46 pm |
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| My dealer has tried to raise the idle speed screw on mine and three others that I know of. It made no difference, it still stalled and acted exactly the same. The kit will not do anything to change hyfax wear, it only is suppose to allow for better handling by changing the ride height and distributing the weight better. I just spoke to a guy via email who has the same problem. He claims that he has had to change hyfax on the trail before. Claims because of this and other problems he's selling his. It's a love hate thing for me but I'd take one of my ZRT's over this machine any day.
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